Give Fireside Pies its due. Before Tristan Simon opened the place on about-to-boom Henderson back in the early ‘00s, Dallas considered Louie’s, Pizza by Marco, and—gah—Campisi’s the pinnacle of pizza. Famed local chef Nick Badovinus helped to open the place, stacking pies with fresh local greens, artichoke hearts, Jimmy’s sausage, prosciutto, and other then wow-inspiring goods.

Years (and the arrival of places like Cavalli and Il Cane Rosso) have exposed Fireside for what it is: a decent designer pizza place of no particular pedigree. Of course, that description applies only to the Henderson location. The chain’s popular site at Inwood and Lovers might as well sell stuffed crust pies to fraternity boys. Other locations fall somewhere in between. Fortunately, Knox-Henderson and Preston Hollow crowds prize see-and-be-seen ambience, so long as there’s a façade of quality.

Wait times at both locations can stretch more than an hour. Fireside does not accept reservations, though you can call ahead and have them scratch your name on a waiting list…or you can take a short drive to someplace serving true Neapolitan-style pizza.