For three decades it has drawn the glittered and the gilded (Rod Stewart, Mick Jagger, sheiks, Asian royalty, Elton John, and so on). And although there’s been a lot of riff and rumble at this vaunted destination in recent years, it remains one of the best in Dallas, with some of our finest chefs weaned and teethed in its legendary kitchens. Plus, the Mansion consistently employs the best sommeliers in the business, expertly matching its delicate, compelling dishes with selections from an impressive arsenal of wines. The pairings can be nothing short of brilliant, the wages of a broad, diverse by-the-glass list.

The look: its classic white tablecloth opulence has surrendered to modish mien with sleek furnishings, tables trimmed with suede mats, and contemporary art pieces in effervescent hues, all illuminated with beams projected from contemporary lighting elements. Palladian windows—portals to the beauteous terrace—are among the elements that retain the Mansion’s classic nomenclature.

Relish the American sturgeon caviar parfait with house-smoked salmon, or lobster cannelloni butternut squash in parmesan broth, or the roasted pheasant-chestnut ravioli, or the prime filet with duck fat fries. Or just slurp the classic tortilla soup. The same culinary landmark it ever was. The Mansion isn’t just for old fogies anymore. Though it helps to have an obese billfold.