When Teiichi Sakurai opened Teppo followed by Tei Tei Robata Bar years ago, he introduced Dallas to the curious notion that Japanese food consisted of something more than raw fish. He taught the delicacy of beef, the harmony of discursive textures and flavors on one table, and more. Then he dumped his iconic restaurants, returned to Japan for more intensive training, and opened Tei An—an authentic soba noodle house.

Few restaurateurs would have the confidence to sell profitable establishments to venture into such an unknown. He understood that the nutty buckwheat noodles are an everyday dish. But commonplace meals can be very nuanced. And Sakurai also understood that Dallas eventually “gets” subtlety. Sakurai makes his signature noodles by hand and serves each bowl with a choice of dipping sauces, ranging from purely Japanese to a neat homage to Texas involving pecans.

Staples from his Tei Tei days transfer well. The sushi is superb, if pricy. The room creates a serene, minimalist, and earthy backdrop, washing away outside annoyances like the cost of parking in or near One Arts (as well as the very contrivance of One Arts). And it all translates into one of the most distinctive and rewarding dining experiences in Dallas.