The brainchild of chef wives Tracy Rathbun (Ken Rathbun, Abacus) and Lynae Fearing (Dean Fearing, Fearing’s), Shinsei has emerged as the go-to destination in Dallas for eclectic Asian flavors with a nod to Texas roots. Fresh, cool sushi selections include all of the standard compositions in addition to a few twists.
There’s the Spanish mackerel with yuzu, olive oil, shiso, and Japanese cucumber. Or try the spicy kaji roll with big eye tuna, Japanese yellow mustard, sriracha sauce, and chili powder. Mains are generous and alluring, from whole fried fish to hoisin baby back ribs to citrus beef tenderloin. Yes the staff can be overbearingly pretentious. But the food more than makes up for such vexations.
The zen atmosphere and see-and-be-seen bar is salaciously lubricated with saketinis, “Shinsei Sangrías,” and ruinously overpriced wines by the glass. The bottle list is predominantly from California with a good smattering of varietal selections and prices. On the few occasions a particular wine isn’t available, servers shamelessly attempt to up-sell to more expensive bottles—all in a good day’s pretentiousness shtick.
Get the 336-page book—it’s an indispensable reference and a great gift—available online or at a Dallas-area store.
Or, subscribe to fearlesscritic.com for just $10 per year—the price of a martini—or try it out for $2 per month. You’ll get access to the complete Fearless Critic content online, including more than 1,000 reviews from all Fearless Critic cities, new reviews as they’re written throughout the year, and advanced search features.
If you’re already a subscriber, please login to your account.
Top Pan-Asian in Dallas8.1 Abacus
7.8 Five Sixty
7.0 Lava 10
6.8 Lemongrass Asian Bistro
6.5 Kona Grill
Newest Dallas reviews
- Chef Hsu
- Yao Fuzi Cuisine
- Taquería El Si Hay
- North China Restaurant
- Royal Sichuan
- Seoul Garden
- Thai Orchid Cuisine
- Bangkok Orchid
Most delicious in Dallas9.8 Tei An
9.6 The Mansion Restaurant
9.4 Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
9.2 Charlie Palmer at the Joule
9.2 2 The Second Floor
9.2 Nam Hua
9.1 The Grape