The puffy taco, believe it, is a San Antonio creation. We’d hope that a place claiming parentage would feel equally iconic, but Henry’s looks like it was modeled on a ‘40s Hollywood set designer’s idea of a Mexican cantina. Cue the coy yet flirtatious señoritas. A place with a sense of irony could pull it off. Irony might excuse buffalo wing appetizers in a putative Tex-Mex restaurant. Irony might somehow give meaning to a michelada that tastes like watered-down beer… [More]

We might as well just publish the walls at Cascabel; covered as they are with culinary comments such as “The food is great here. There’s no other place like it.” and “Ésta es comida mexicana!” Said walls have only become denser with opinion and attitude over the years that this singular Southtown place has been open.

And every main dish was $7.50 at press time. (Breakfast, served all day, is less expensive.) Tlacoyos, huaraches, birria … these are not… [More]