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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.5
7.0
$35
A local icon trades on nostalgia but dares to tweak a once-immutable menu

There was much wailing and rending of garments on the news that Earl Abel’s, a local landmark that had been serving up fabled fried chicken and other homey-hit-parade dishes since 1933, was to be demolished to make room for an apartment tower. What to do without Thursday’s Irish corned beef and cabbage or Saturday’s Salisbury steak? New owners rode to the rescue, moving to a strip center, alas, but keeping the menu largely intact. Yes, you can still get a… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
5.5
$15
Super ‘cue in a blood-red dive

Jones’ address is east of St. Philip’s College in a kind of no-man’s land. The building is a somewhat disquieting shade of dried-blood red, and, in a departure from the norm, there’s no outside dining. No order window, either; you must penetrate the interior, and at first it’s almost akin to stepping across the threshold of a dive geared more to beer and broads than barbecue and sweet tea. The inside, too, is dark red.

But shades of CSI quickly fade… [More]