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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.1
6.5
$15
The whole is less than the sum of its parts. Or maybe vice versa.

The graphics are neat, the concept—a limited menu of burgers, pizza, and tacos—seems obvious and achievable, and the stores are cleanly designed. The illusion of service and efficiency is complete. Ah, the willing suspension of disbelief. (Cue dropping shoe.)

It should be easy, for example, to get a simple burger (chipotle mayo the only special additive) and a small salad to come out at the same time, but no: 12 minutes of separation. Or maybe 15. (Cue second shoe.)

Simultaneity notwithstanding, the… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
5.5
$15
Super ‘cue in a blood-red dive

Jones’ address is east of St. Philip’s College in a kind of no-man’s land. The building is a somewhat disquieting shade of dried-blood red, and, in a departure from the norm, there’s no outside dining. No order window, either; you must penetrate the interior, and at first it’s almost akin to stepping across the threshold of a dive geared more to beer and broads than barbecue and sweet tea. The inside, too, is dark red.

But shades of CSI quickly fade… [More]