San Antonians, accustomed to tacos and cheap Mexican plates, are reluctant to part with pesos at lunch; one topping out over $50 had better be bueno. Or très bien, given the location at Bistro Vatel.

For example, at a recent visit, a bacon-wrapped country pâté served with two mustards and cornichons; a daily special of “bluenose” bass with lemon risotto; a pear and almond tart; one glass of Domaine Ott rosé. The pâté? Pitch-perfect. The poisson? Beautifully plated but sturdy and… [More]

We might as well just publish the walls at Cascabel; covered as they are with culinary comments such as “The food is great here. There’s no other place like it.” and “Ésta es comida mexicana!” Said walls have only become denser with opinion and attitude over the years that this singular Southtown place has been open.

And every main dish was $7.50 at press time. (Breakfast, served all day, is less expensive.) Tlacoyos, huaraches, birria … these are not… [More]