The itty-bitty kitchen of this ubiquitous, cramped drive-thru turns out some of the best roast chicken in the city. There’s also other, perfectly serviceable fare (it varies by location somewhat), like parrillada with smoky sausage and dry, husky carne asada; tacos al pastor; tortas; and so on. These are fine, but there are better renditions elsewhere. What you want is the chicken, which comes with Mexican rice, a grilled sweet onion, warm corn tortillas, two excellent salsas, and charro beans.… [More]

If you love Azul Tequila, get down to Papalote, their taquería in the slow-forming Austinville plaza on South Lamar. It’s a pretty typical strip-mall affair, with a couple tables inside and out, and beverages in coolers, but the gray-blue cinderblock room warmly pays homage to some of Mexico’s great comedians in framed movie posters and caricatures. The menu continues this with a section of street-food tacos named after Juan Camaney, their version of John Belushi. It’s at first a confusing… [More]