Of the pricey chain steakhouses, III Forks feels more fun and Texan than the rest. It’s lively, with an elegant, almost Art Deco clubbiness. Of course, the service is of the expected bumbling-over-the-top ilk; it’s endearing at times, when not awkward. You’ll find a few too many designated “sommeliers,” the opposite problem most modern restaurants have, but there’s such little variation between its big, oaky wines that it obliterates the need for guidance. The bar’s list of “Modern Classics” comprises… [More]

The itty-bitty kitchen of this ubiquitous, cramped drive-thru turns out some of the best roast chicken in the city. There’s also other, perfectly serviceable fare (it varies by location somewhat), like parrillada with smoky sausage and dry, husky carne asada; tacos al pastor; tortas; and so on. These are fine, but there are better renditions elsewhere. What you want is the chicken, which comes with Mexican rice, a grilled sweet onion, warm corn tortillas, two excellent salsas, and charro beans.… [More]