In a city full of pho slurping spots, Pho Van’s beefy brew still stands out. We’re fans of the fatty brisket, which is more edible here than at the also-excellent Pho Saigon, but eye round ordered on the side (so you can control how cooked it gets) is paltry by comparison. We used to find the broth an intoxicating medley of clove, star anise, scallion, and marrow, but lately, it seems to have lost a dimension. Regardless, it’s still one… [More]

The itty-bitty kitchen of this ubiquitous, cramped drive-thru turns out some of the best roast chicken in the city. There’s also other, perfectly serviceable fare (it varies by location somewhat), like parrillada with smoky sausage and dry, husky carne asada; tacos al pastor; tortas; and so on. These are fine, but there are better renditions elsewhere. What you want is the chicken, which comes with Mexican rice, a grilled sweet onion, warm corn tortillas, two excellent salsas, and charro beans.… [More]