Of the pricey chain steakhouses, III Forks feels more fun and Texan than the rest. It’s lively, with an elegant, almost Art Deco clubbiness. Of course, the service is of the expected bumbling-over-the-top ilk; it’s endearing at times, when not awkward. You’ll find a few too many designated “sommeliers,” the opposite problem most modern restaurants have, but there’s such little variation between its big, oaky wines that it obliterates the need for guidance. The bar’s list of “Modern Classics” comprises… [More]

Teeny La Canaria’s siren song is its gaudy (but recently refreshed) yellow paintjob, scruffy convenience-store landlord, and tumbleweed litter. Experience has taught us that a lack of flash and formality can frequently be trusted where Mexican street food is concerned.

The menu’s accordingly basic: tacos, tostadas, tortas, and gorditas, with a few specials on weekends, like menudo. Crispy corn tostadas contrast nicely with their generous fresh avocado and fine smear of beans, but we’re always tempted instead by sopes, which take… [More]