Justine’s opened in East Austin, like many eateries these days, without much fanfare. And yes, it is too cool for school, with its late-night dining and sexy, dark vibe. The cocktail renaissance has made its way here, but drinks here are still a long way from greatness. They’re somewhat unmeasured and clumsy, but fine (if you don’t mind floating lemon seeds or chunks of muddled materials). Some servers seem to try to substitute sexiness for knowledge and ability, flirting aptly with both men and women, but often unable to answer questions or fulfill requests.

The menu is full of French bistro classics, some more faithfully rendered than others. An appetizer of tender white asparagus and sabayon is pretty to look at, but it’s served piping hot, which threatens to break the delicate custard. Still, the spears are well served by the rich sauce, even if they pale in comparison to the texturally alluring escargots, prepared traditionally and simply in parsley butter sauce.

After some classic salads and soups (of which the French onion is correct and delicious), there’s a terse list of meat and seafood mains. (The French aren’t very keen on vegetarianism, sorry.) A steak tartare is very good (the menu lists it as being made with “all natural steak”—was there some doubt?) with a serious hot garlic kick and an ooey-gooey quail yolk resting on top. Fries are thin, crisp, and well seasoned, but their mayonnaisey-y aïoli could use some of that garlic.

What gives us the most hope, where Justine’s kitchen is concerned, is what seems to be an interest in improving—it may sound obvious, but this is an attribute rarer among new Austin restaurants than you’d expect. Some initial visits found the cut of meat on the classic steak frites too thick and fatty, but it has recently been tender, with flavorful bites. There are a few confidence-busting moves, like a duck confit with a powerful star-anise flavor and distinctively Asian spicing; it tastes good, but suggests a lack of appreciation for an inherently gamey duck. More likely, Justine’s isn’t sure the public will appreciate it, but a French attitude would be the correct one to adopt in this case. For the most part, mains are kept wonderfully simple, elegant and classic in their platings.

Some touches are outstanding, like a pétanque court outside that will certainly see use when the weather is tame. But the wine program reads largely like an afterthought—the most un-French move of all. There are some strides to carry lesser-known Old-World bargain wines that so beautifully fit this cuisine, but for now, it’s a little dumbed down. You came this far, Justine’s—why not go all the way?

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