To devotees of celebrity divorces, the hubbub surrounding Haddington’s staff changes will seem familiar. There were the usual publicized gaffes, the whispered rumors, the official word that everyone is in a good place now. Indeed, having lost the bartender and chef that made it such a promising venue, Haddington’s seems to have settled comfortably enough into its role as the Warehouse District’s rare respectable watering hole and eatery. The cocktail program isn’t what it once was, but it still takes everything else on this fratty block to town. The wine list continues to focus on less-advertised regions, where wine is still made by actual winemakers, and taps still pour outstanding local beers and some cask-conditioned ales. Gather friends in the dimly lit, pubby atmosphere, and it feels sort of like the college bar experience that ’80s movies made us fantasize about.
The food menu has kept from the first incarnation some of its best attributes—small pots of truffled egg and white bean spread with toast, deviled eggs, and so on—and has shifted the rest to “familiar” (uh-oh) American tavern dishes, but with a seasonal drive. The burger is excellent, but otherwise, small plates like mussels or a mini duck meatloaf are most impressive. Brunch is popular here, especially on the small but gazebo-esque patio. Dessert’s serviceable, but anyway, we’d (still) rather have another drink.
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