When Texas Monthly outed Snow’s Bar-B-Q in mid-2008, the place went haywire. Suddenly, the little shop—which is only open on Saturday mornings—began selling out within a few hours. Nowadays, if you show up much past even 9am, you risk coming away empty-handed—quite the booby prize for someone who’s just gotten up first thing Saturday morning.

Lexington is a pretty drive from Austin. Follow your nose to a tiny building across from an old grain silo. While you’re waiting in line, check out the guestbook—it’s a testament to how far the barbecue aficionados will travel to get their fix. If the small number of tables inside are full, there’s plenty of seating outside near the pits.

Inconsistency is a bugaboo in Central Texas barbecue, but when Snow’s brisket is on its game, it’s one of the best around: subtly smoky, nicely seasoned, and meltingly tender. On a few visits, it has come out somewhat dry (ask for an end cut to be safe). All-beef sausage, from the Giddings City Market, is coarsely ground and peppery, and especially good with the (gasp!) prepackaged tart and tangy sauce. Chicken can be uneven—sometimes spectacular and sometimes a little tough. The sides are beside the point (mushy, overcooked baked beans; good potato salad), but at least they’re free. Besides, it’s all about the brisket.