City Market in Luling fits interestingly into the scheme of Texas barbecue. For starters, it’s got a wannabe doppelgänger in Houston, Luling City Market, whose core business seems to be trademark infringement. But any Texan worth his brisket knows that the best ‘cue lurks in tiny towns, not big cities. And Luling, with a population just over 5,000, is home to some of the best smoked meats in America. Word hasn’t gotten out yet, and at a meal here you’ll be rubbing elbows (quite literally—seating is at communal picnic-style tables) almost exclusively with locals. Foppish chowhounds are in the minority here; they’re far outnumbered by toolbelt-sporting, cowboy-hat-wearing men of the land, often with the whole family in tow.

You can try your best to emulate the look, but unless you’re well versed in this confusing ordering system, you’ll immediately stick out like the outsider that you are. Meats are ordered in the impossibly smoky room where they’re cooked, which might be the best-smelling spot in Texas. It’s kept that way by lack of ventilation, and you’re barked at to quickly shut the door behind you. Sides and drinks are ordered at yet another counter. They get points for having Big Red, that Texas barbecue staple, but now that there are frosty beers available, who’s gonna notice?

Ribs here are fall-off-the-bone tender, as smoky as any we’ve seen, and pretty much a religious experience. Brisket is equally good—as long as you ask for it fatty. The rub isn’t really pronounced here, but minimal seasoning works in favor of this sausage, which is of the loose-packed variety, and quite rich—almost overly so for some. The all-natural casing snaps when you bite into it; we‘ve seen the juice within spray several wonderful feet (fortunately, no one was hit). Sauce, should you deign to use it, is in bottles on the table; it’s sweet, tomatoey, and in our opinion, not really necessary. Creamy potato salad is a refreshing complement to the meats.

This, friends, is barbecue. It’s no Kreuz, where you’ll find ten too many well-heeled city folk out for a healthy dose of rural Texas life; this is the real deal. For the multi-generational table with son, father, and grandfather, this is just supper. As it always has been, and as it always will be.

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