“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
7.8
8.0
$80
An over-the-top circus of pretense with some legitimate highlights

Oozing with pretense seems to be a lease requirement in the Galleria’s BLVD Place (which also houses that overpriced opera buffa RDG), as exemplified by Phillipe’s menu of annoying, unhelpful doublespeak like “Contained Decadence” (pots of brioche spreads), “Satisfaction…Guaranteed” (this one baffles us: are the other items on the menu not guaranteed?), and “Unrestrained” (again, the suggestion is unnerving). The absolute limit, however, is the “art menu,” which provides information on the (albeit lovely) art on the walls. The minimalist,… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
4.0
$5
In two Chinatown supermarkets, hidden worlds of glistening, crispy flesh

Willie Lai is a man with one crazy talent for crisping up animal skins. He runs both the hidden Chinese barbecue joints in the backs of Dynasty Supermarket (where it’s called Dynasty Chinese BBQ) and in the newer Golden Foods (where it’s Willie’s BBQ). Dynasty is one of the oldest Asian grocery stores on Bellaire. The sounds, smells, and yellow hue haven’t changed much over the last couple of decades. Prepare to be serenaded by the high-pitched sound of whole… [More]