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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
7.8
6.0
$10
The secret at this tiny shop is to only order food with outerwear

When the dreary Santong Snacks, which developed a feverish horde of followers for its exemplary dumplings, moved into brighter, shinier digs and became San Dong Noodle House, there was a severe drop in the near-perfect quality of its prized preparations. Not enough to completely eradicate it from our radar, but it was certainly no longer in the upper echelon of Chinese eateries. But we’ve since seen steady improvement, and things are almost as excellent as they were before the move.… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
4.0
$5
In two Chinatown supermarkets, hidden worlds of glistening, crispy flesh

Willie Lai is a man with one crazy talent for crisping up animal skins. He runs both the hidden Chinese barbecue joints in the backs of Dynasty Supermarket (where it’s called Dynasty Chinese BBQ) and in the newer Golden Foods (where it’s Willie’s BBQ). Dynasty is one of the oldest Asian grocery stores on Bellaire. The sounds, smells, and yellow hue haven’t changed much over the last couple of decades. Prepare to be serenaded by the high-pitched sound of whole… [More]