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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.4
6.0
$15
The friendlies here manage to nail brisket, ribs, and sausage

Some blame Houston’s clean-air laws (we have those?) as the reason why the city’s barbecue doesn’t stack up to that of the Hill Country. Aside from the Chinese version, of which we can be enormously proud, our city’s self-proclaimed barbecue barons dish up mushy brisket and meats with nary a hint of smoke. However, on the outskirts, in its modest little house, Virgie’s nails it. This may be a bold statement, but the brisket will back us up, aggressively smoked… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.7
4.5
$5
Best tamales in town—better, fresh from the steamer

Some claim Alamo has the best tamales, but we find them a little dense and underwhelming. Doña Tere’s are the finest we’ve had in town, especially when they’re just out of the steamer. They have a creamy texture that melds with the filling to produce a gooiness close to godliness. Wait too long, and the effect goes away, leaving you with, still, one of the best things of its kind in Houston.

There are about a dozen varieties, including a few… [More]