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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
9.6
8.0
$90
Exemplary Italian served in a surprisingly casual and approachable atmosphere

We continue to have the best culinary experiences in Houston at this world-class restaurant. The kitchen’s often mislabeled as “northern Italian” because the virtuoso chef is from Friuli, but the menu spans the entirety of the Boot. Buffalo-milk burrata—a profound, cream-spiked version of mozzarella, paired with exceptionally ripe tomatoes—derives from Puglia. Campania is where you’d see the most wood-fired brick ovens of the sort Da Marco uses for its margherita pizza, whose balance of ripe, reduced tomato flavor with sharp,… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
6.5
$10
You’re here for one reason: otherworldly banh cuon

Read enough restaurant websites and you’ll see the phrase “…will transport you to a different place” tossed around like a vermicelli noodle in a bowl. Many claim such dramatic otherworldly experiences, but few deliver; those that do, like Thien Thanh, seem to do it effortlessly and humbly. This dilapidated shop is convincing despite (or perhaps due to) being bereft of bells and whistles: its fading green tables are barely lit, and lingering scents of its house-blended nuoc cham (fish sauce)… [More]