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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
7.0
5.0
$20
Strong Thai that’s a little overrated, and a little less fun without its resident grouch

Kanomwan (popularly known as “Telephone Thai” because of its location on gritty Telephone Street, near the University of Houston) acquired cult status among fans who deemed it some of the most vividly flavored Thai food in the city. Its critics, on the other hand, pointed out that it was more expensive and less authentic than Vieng Thai. But there’s one thing everyone agreed on: the owner, affectionately referred to as the “Thai Nazi,” who took (and gave) orders and worked… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
6.0
$15
Don’t let the squeaky clean looks fool you—this here’s some dirty, smoky goodness

You needn’t be Texan to be highly suspicious as you pull up to Gatlin’s brand new, bland little taupe house with white trim and a shaded patio. Nothing about the look of the place says “serious barbecue;” not its deep-red curtains, nor its overproduced signage (although the Styrofoam containers are, we hate to say, legit). But the only thing that matters, where Texas barbecue is concerned, is the brisket—and this one tears down the house. Especially from the fattier ends,… [More]