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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
9.1
7.5
$110
Amid much grandiosity and noise, a simplicity quietly succeeds on the plate

Tony Vallone’s name has, in Houston, become synonymous with success (although we don’t think his middling Café Bello and Ciao Bello ventures qualify). His eponymous Italian restaurant turned a corner in 2009, finally trading in much of its fussy, creamy American-pleasers for more authentic, simple preparations. The modesty just makes the bright, soaring dining room all the more obscene; while the redesign reduced the sleaze factor considerably, the color palette of burnt-peach and brown is merely a bland backdrop for… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
7.0
$20
Bypass the barbecue for a garden of sweet-savory-spicy earthly delights

It’s not clear what Bon Ga “Garden Restaurant” means—it clearly isn’t vegetarian, nor does it have a garden. Tucked away in an unassuming shopping center in an area with so many borderline-health-code-violation restaurants, it’s refreshingly clean and tidy. Service is push-button—no joke, you actually have a call button at your table, allowing the whole place to run with only a couple of waitpeople, whom we suppose to be related, give that the restaurant’s family-owned, with the chef a frail-looking, middle-aged… [More]