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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
6.0
$15
The burger fiends bliss out over Akaushi, duck fat, and donuts

A lot of fuss is made over Akaushi, a breed of Japanese wagyu raised in Texas. Its muscle fibers are longer and thinner, resulting in more tender meat, and the fat’s intramuscular, so you get a great composition of flavor and texture. It’s full of monounsaturated fat, making it much healthier than the typical Choice—or even Prime—ground beef. Here, it makes for a good, juicy burger that’s especially pleasing if you go in for complex constructions.

A Shipley’s donut burger is… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
6.5
$10
A ghost town worth exploring, even without the terrific barbecue

The population of Giddings, halfway between Austin and Houston, is just a touch over 5,000, but it feels even lonelier than that, especially given the ghostlike stretch of 290 where City Meat Market is. Are our small towns on the verge of extinction, losing their young to the urban wastelands?

Inside the market, it’s as dark, smoky, and dirty as a ‘cue joint ought to be. The whole transaction feels a little shady, as if you’re buying drugs—which, in a… [More]