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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
6.4
7.0
$15
Cheap and decent sumac-sprinkled comfort food

First, let’s dispel a myth: Zabak’s is not the best Middle Eastern/Eastern Mediterranean food in town. Not by a long shot. It’s easy to be convinced now and then, especially on a good day, when the falafel is properly crisp on the outside and fluffy green inside from jalapeños—but sometimes, it’s got a reheated, tough texture. Its generous coating of sumac is definitely appealing, and the pita’s terrific; on a gyro, zippy tzatziki’s lively and fresh-tasting, but the meat’s just… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
6.0
$10
A bright yellow schoolbus that schools Houston on the ideal burger

Some basic burger arithmetic:

Problem: Burger > mouth = irritation + mess

Solution: Bernie’s burgers, while substantial, are a manageable size and not super drippy.

Problem: “Medium-rare” = “Medium-well” (FALSE)

Solution: Char-tasting burgers are actually cooked to order.

Problem: Mobile food = impossible to grid

Solution: You can depend on two locations: Lizzard’s Pub (Wed-Fri nights, on whose patio you can enjoy a dive-bar beer), and Inversion Coffeehouse at lunchtime (Mon and Wed). Check the website or Twitter (@berniesburgers) for other appearances.

Problem: French fries + 10… [More]