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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
7.0
$10
Great pho and bun bo Hue from the cleanest corner of Hong Kong Mall 4

Pho Danh II is buried in the side of Hong Kong Mall 4, which houses several of the city’s most underwhelming pho houses. But this restaurant stands out so much from the rest of the mall, it’s shocking. And not just because of the pho—if it weren’t mostly liquid, you could probably eat it off the floor it’s so clean in here. Even the kitchen looks like it’s swept and buffed hourly.

Whereas most pho places have rice plates, spring rolls,… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
6.0
$15
Don’t let the squeaky clean looks fool you—this here’s some dirty, smoky goodness

You needn’t be Texan to be highly suspicious as you pull up to Gatlin’s brand new, bland little taupe house with white trim and a shaded patio. Nothing about the look of the place says “serious barbecue;” not its deep-red curtains, nor its overproduced signage (although the Styrofoam containers are, we hate to say, legit). But the only thing that matters, where Texas barbecue is concerned, is the brisket—and this one tears down the house. Especially from the fattier ends,… [More]