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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
8.0
$10
A Mexican trek where the rewards surpass the slight distance

This hidden festive, old-school Mexican restaurant way out by Hobby Airport reminds us of an abuela’s kitchen, if abuela were just trying to make a few bucks while she was at it. The simple meal you have here—on floral oilcloths and cheap plastic plates—will easily blow away those at more centrally located, yup-tacular Mexican joints. The lunch rush starts near breakfast time (which should tell you how early the breakfast rush starts). And these wonderful huevos rancheros could make us… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.8
6.0
$15
Don’t let the squeaky clean looks fool you—this here’s some dirty, smoky goodness

You needn’t be Texan to be highly suspicious as you pull up to Gatlin’s brand new, bland little taupe house with white trim and a shaded patio. Nothing about the look of the place says “serious barbecue;” not its deep-red curtains, nor its overproduced signage (although the Styrofoam containers are, we hate to say, legit). But the only thing that matters, where Texas barbecue is concerned, is the brisket—and this one tears down the house. Especially from the fattier ends,… [More]