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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
8.0
$55
Northern Italian cuisine speaks with a sexy Texas twang in this temple of temptation

Brillat-Savarin wrote of the virtues of an “impassioned, reasoned, and habitual preference for everything which gratifies the organ of taste”—virtues often curated by the sort of people who opened Stella Sola, a restaurant that invites hyperbole not because it is flawless or particularly cutting-edge, but because it does something that few restaurants anywhere do: it pays tribute.

The menu is a seasonal portrait of Texan ingredients, employed in mostly Northern Italian preparations. Handmade pastas and charcuterie intertwine with local produce, Gulf… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
8.0
$15
Texas barbecue royalty that has its pretenders, but few parallels

City Market in Luling has a wannabe doppelgänger in Houston called Luling City Market, whose core business seems to be trademark infringement. But any Texan worth his brisket knows that the best ‘cue lurks in tiny towns, not big cities. And Luling, with a population just over 5,000, is home to some of the best smoked meats in America—not to mention brotherhood: you’ll sit at communal tables with toolbelt-sporting, cowboy-hat-wearing men of the land, often with the whole family in… [More]