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Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
A little taste of Italy—both in the cup and out

Caffé Umbria appeared on the scene a few months ago, with all the flash and glamour you’d expect at a major restaurant opening. The thing is, it’s just an Italian coffeeshop. But the hype is no wonder, as the Umbria beans are becoming a Pacific-Northwest-wide phenomenon whose ambition seems almost limitless. The company has gained a lot of traction packaging its Seattle coffee and selling it to local restaurants, making it a recognizable name before it ever opened shop here… [More]

From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
The best tacos in the Portland area, where you least expect them

Those iconic hand-painted signs, the signals of regional authenticity, decorate the expanses of cheap-looking glass that separate this unknown, underappreciated Mexican restaurant from the Tigard strip-mall parking lots that surround it. “Estilo Jalisco,” says one of the paintings—indicating the style of Mexico’s Jalisco state, home to Guadalajara, where the torta ahogada (drowned sandwich)—listed on the menu here as “hogada”—is king. It’s served on a bolillo (baguette-ish roll), stuffed with chunks of juicy roast pork, and bathed in a spicy tomato-and-chile… [More]