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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
9.0
4.5
$15
The best tacos in the Portland area, where you least expect them

Those iconic hand-painted signs, the signals of regional authenticity, decorate the expanses of cheap-looking glass that separate this unknown, underappreciated Mexican restaurant from the Tigard strip-mall parking lots that surround it. “Estilo Jalisco,” says one of the paintings—indicating the style of Mexico’s Jalisco state, home to Guadalajara, where the torta ahogada (drowned sandwich)—listed on the menu here as “hogada”—is king. It’s served on a bolillo (baguette-ish roll), stuffed with chunks of juicy roast pork, and bathed in a spicy tomato-and-chile… [More]


From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
8.6
7.0
$20
A tiny, intensely popular spot serving intense flavors on the cheap

Call us persnickety, but we’re always encouraged when a Middle Eastern restaurant doesn’t refer to itself “Mediterranean,” which is a nebulous and often inaccurate cuisine type. It usually refers to the dishes of lands once covered by the southern penumbra of the Ottoman Empire, but it can technically include cuisines that are now totally distinct, like Moroccan, Italian, and Greek.

What these misleadingly named eateries are usually referring to is a menu much like the one at Nicholas, a mostly Lebanese… [More]