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–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review of the day
Delicious gelato that gets it all right, with some lovely touches from the Old World

D’Ambrosio Gelato is about as far away from the gluttonous experience that is Cold Stone Creamery as you can get. No one is going to break out into an off-key song and dance if you plunk a dollar into the tip jar. Portions are small and civilized. Ask the owner to throw Oreos and Reese’s Pieces mix-ins into his Sicilian pistachio gelato, and he’d probably clutch his heart, curse your forebears, and keel over from the sacrilege.

Locals line up… [More]

From the Super ’Stache The underpriced underdogs
The kingdom of cured meats, ruled by the Batali family

Salumi was started by Armandino Batali, father of the famous Mario. The former ran the place up until his recent retirement; it’s still a family affair, with Armandino’s daughter Gina Batali running the show now.

You’ll see Salumi’s meats on menus all over town—on charcuterie plates, in sandwiches, or tucked into pasta. For this reason, you don’t actually have to visit Salumi to experience it, but the tiny storefront performs three important functions. First of all, it’s a retail shop… [More]