The original Cooper‘s is way out in Mason, Texas. It’s a trek, to be sure, but true barbecue diehards are more excited about this branch than the one in Llano (both have been owned by non-Coopers for decades now). Whichever way you choose to go, both are lodged deeply, snugly, into Red-State Texas, complete with a thank-you letter from W himself.

What has elevated Cooper’s into the Texas BBQ stratosphere is its world-class brisket, gently smoky and bountifully cushioned by fat. (There have been reports of inconsistency, but where haven’t there?) Usually, it’s spot-on, but if you ask for it fatty—which you should—try to avoid an end cut. Ribs are often terrific, and sausage has a good juiciness. Chicken has been pretty consistently moist and liberally peppered.

In spite of its gargantuan reputation, the “Big Chop” here does occasionally creep surprisingly close to toughness. It’s an absurdly sized pork chop that is shockingly thick, but can vary dramatically in tenderness, as can the flavorful pork loin.

Cooper’s is staffed by terse old-timers, who do their talking in squints rather than words, and look like they oughta be chewing on something tough. There’s a certain kind of manly meat here that’s very different from the sweet, sauce-crusted ’cue served by most local smoke barons. Cuts are massive and unadorned, except by a very basic rub that’s mostly salt-’n’-pepper with a few other spices. This is a meat-lover’s delight—all you get is the flesh, and plenty of it.

You pick your cut before you even enter the restaurant, from a great steel pit that’s manned by a laconic old man in a gimme cap. At your request he’ll dunk your choice into a vat before slapping it onto a plastic tray for you to carry in and enjoy. That dip is thin, vinegary, and peppery, in what many would describe as the correct, authentic Hill Country style. The flavor that it contributes is barely perceptible except for the added acidity that complements the greasiness of the meat. There’s sometimes wonderfully gamey cabrito (baby goat), too, which is a treat.

We’re glad to have Cooper’s holding strong in this area, if for no other reason than we love to visit the banks of the Llano river with a container of outstanding blackberry cobbler, our bellies full of brisket.

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