Lewis’s BBQ off of East MLK has been Danny’s BBQ for a while now, the pits having been passed on, apparently, due to Lewis’s worsening health issues—our thoughts are with you, Rib Maestro. The tiny cinderblock house off the beaten path is no longer Pepto-Bismol-pink, but a grungy white. It’s mostly a take-out spot; if you do eat there, you have three picnic tables upon which rain will still fall. In good weather, the low traffic and smoky air reminds us of camping.

Danny’s menu, like Lewis’s, consists of plates, sandwiches, and by-the-pound barbecue, including a stand-out pork roast and mutton. The pork is astonishing: tender, juicy, and with a bit of smoke. The mutton (really, lamb) is less greasy than at Sam’s, and so is much more enjoyable. These are really the reasons to come here if you’re not already in the area. Aside from that, pork ribs and fatty brisket are supple and serviceable, and Elgin sausage snappy and spicy.

Incidentally, Danny’s is run by Sam’s kin, who don’t at all mind rubbing it in Sam’s face when people say that they’ve got the better ’cue. Bless you both, for showing the rest of us how to lay it and take it on the chin without taking it too hard.