In the 1990s, the Schmidt family duked it out, and in the end, one side got to keep the name Kreuz Market, while the other side got to keep the original building from 1900. Happily, everyone continued to make top-notch barbecue. Perhaps the loss of the Kreuz name and reputation has kept the crew at Smitty’s working extra hard to maintain quality. Whatever it is, it’s working.

The old red brick building near the town square hasn’t changed a bit, and the heat from the fire that is right there—watch your children, please—can be heaven or hell, depending on the season. We take visitors here for the 100%-Texas experience. Within these greasy, smoked-black walls, you can watch men with giant metal hooks wrestle your meat out of the pit.

The dining room is bright and plain, in stark contrast to the more done-up Kreuz Market. We hate paying for beans and pickles, especially when the former are this bland, but we can hardly fault the ’cue. Smoke-ringed brisket can come rather dry; order it fatty or from the end to combat this. We’ve had incredible prime rib: rare, smoky, juicy, full-flavored beef loveliness. Ribs are on the sweeter side, but tender when you get a meaty one. The best work, though, is loose-packed sausage, which squirts intensely flavorful juice when bitten into. We don’t even mind getting hit with it.