Kreuz Market (pronounced “krites”) opened, like its contemporaries, as a grocery, smoking meat to preserve it in the days before refrigeration—that’s how the Texas barbecue tradition started.

Almost 100 years later, in 1999, it moved up the road from its original spot to a huge barn-like structure that could probably seat the entire town. Antique scales and cash registers, photos, and signs line the hall where you wait in line to order. A dozen pits fill the back walls, emitting heat and smoke. It feels every bit the authentic Hill Country barbecue experience. As with all the Hill Country barbecue giants, consistency can be an issue. The brisket’s usually wonderfully moist and smoky, but we’ve also had it come somewhat dry. Your best bet is to order it fatty, or get the end cut—not both, unless you want a mouthful of pure globules.

Sausage is always terrific, smoky and peppery, and the jalapeño-cheese is great, if a little bit of a cheat. The loose-coarse grind goes great with saltines, a bit of avocado, and a dash of hot sauce. We like the German potato salad, a hearty diversion from the usual creamed style. Kreuz offers no sauce, and never has, allowing the meat to speak for itself. Most of the time, we can’t complain.