Uchi doesn’t have to keep getting better. It already boasts the longest waits in town, even on weeknights; the buzz surrounding its forthcoming sibling restaurant near the Seton Medical Center is deafening; its nationally acclaimed chef, who battled Morimoto on “Iron Chef,” is working on a cookbook. Uchi could rest on its laurels, continuing to serve Texas’ best Japanese food. Instead, it does what few other restaurants in this position would: it improves.
Perhaps the best illustration of the kitchen’s obsessions lies in the amuse-bouche that comes first when you order omakase (you should do it, at least once). On a recent visit, this was merely a sip of tomato water with a speck of green tomato gelée and a sprig of microcoriander. But even a wee sip is symphonic here, each note layering upon the one before it: vegetal, savory coolness; then, a melting touch of sweet green; and finally the citrusy torque of coriander. All of them harmonized into a moment that deserves silence and attention. And that’s how best to enjoy Uchi: sit down, hang on, and release control. Let go of insecure orders like spider rolls (or any rolls, which, while good, are as far from the point as the cup holder on a Porsche). Your enthusiastic, capable server will guide you to what’s fresh from Tsukiji: willow leaf fish, live scallop, sex-sweet uni.
Uchi retains its spot atop our rankings not just for its attention to detail, but also for its determination to keep innovating. Tako pops, which once came blood red with pre-marination, are now marinated in-house—the result is a more subtle complexity of sesame, char, and ocean. Ika sansai is now prepared entirely on the premises as well, with its tender, young cuttlefish grilled and gently dressed on Romaine leaves with slivers of green tomato and Fuji apple. And one of our favorite dishes, grilled mackerel, has found greater resonance from the addition of fresh parsley, cucumber, and preserved lemon.
Dining in this warmly lit South Lamar house, set in suave reds and deep browns, can be a high-maintenance experience. The room is quite loud, your treatment at the hostess station might be brusque, and waits are often intolerably long; they’re mitigated, though, by a small, cozy bar and a lovely outdoor rock-and-water garden, in which you can sip while you wait. These distractions melt away with your first taste of the best foie gras in the city, sometimes seared and served nigiri-style with a dab of sweet fish-caramel sauce. The wine program, in spite of high markups, remains beautifully realized. Now is as good a time as ever to set aside an evening to appreciate this extraordinary restaurant.
Comments (7)
Just a nitpick really. This was still the best meal I've had in Austin and less than $100 a head is a pretty good deal.
My favorite dish actually is the tako pops, baby octopus (they're so cute) marinated in sesame oil, grilled on charcoal, served with a variety of salts and spices.
Make sure to go before 6:30 for little-to-no wait and enjoy their Happy Hour prices on sake and a few dishes as well.
Uchiko is a world class restaurant that not only re-affirms Tyson Cole's brilliance, but
further enhances Austin's reputation as an up and coming culinary hotspot.