Uchi doesn’t have to keep getting better. It already boasts the longest waits in town, even on weeknights; the buzz surrounding its forthcoming sibling restaurant near the Seton Medical Center is deafening; its nationally acclaimed chef, who battled Morimoto on “Iron Chef,” is about to release a cookbook. Uchi could rest on its laurels, continuing to serve dishes that consistently rank up there with the world’s best. Instead, it does what few other restaurants in this position would: it improves.

Perhaps the best illustration of the kitchen’s obsessions lies in the amuse-bouche that comes first when you order omakase (you should do it, at least once). On a recent visit, this was merely a sip of tomato water with a speck of green tomato gelée and a sprig of microcoriander. But even a wee sip is symphonic here, each note layering upon the one before it: vegetal, savory coolness; then a melting touch of sweet green; followed by the citrusy torque of coriander—all harmonizing into a moment that deserves silence and attention. And that’s how best to enjoy Uchi: sit down, hang on, and release control. Let go of insecure orders like spider rolls (or any rolls, which, while good, are as far from the point as the cup holder on a Porsche). Your enthusiastic, capable server will guide you to what’s fresh from Tsukiji: willow leaf fish, live scallop, sex-sweet uni.

Not only Uchi’s attention to detail, but its determination to continually seek its highest potential earns it its place as our top-ranked restaurant. Tako pops, which once came blood red with pre-marination, are now marinated in house—the result is a more subtle complexity of sesame, char, and ocean; ika sansai is now prepared entirely on the premises as well, with its tender, young cuttlefish grilled and gently dressed on Romaine leaves with slivers of green tomato and Fuji apple. And one of our favorite dishes, grilled mackerel, has found greater resonance in the addition of fresh parsley, cucumber, and preserved lemon.

Dining in this warmly lit South Lamar house, set in suave reds and deep browns, can be a high-maintenance experience. The room is quite loud, your treatment at the hostess station might be brusque, and waits are often intolerably long; they’re mitigated, though, by a small, cozy bar and a lovely outdoor rock-and-water garden, in which you can sip while you wait. These distractions melt away with your first taste of some of the best foie gras you’ll ever have, sometimes seared and served nigiri-style with a dab of sweet fish-caramel sauce. The wine program, in spite of high markups, remains a beautifully realized list. It has been exciting, over the past couple of years, to watch this extraordinary restaurant not just maintain, but mature.

The bacon steakie that is raved about on the internet seems like a Chinese recipe. The bold flavors made this stand out in my mind to be rather un-Japanese, and out of place with the more subtle, naturalistic style of the rest of the menu. Nevertheless, it is delicious.

Kent Wang - 2008-12-22 23:56

Just had the omakase last night ($190 for two people). Seared monkfish liver dish was superb, but the underlying sauce was much too sweet. This is true to a lesser degree of a few other dishes too: sweet sauces, sometimes with a bit of acidity, that don't really go with the fish.

Just a nitpick really. This was still the best meal I've had in Austin and less than $100 a head is a pretty good deal.

My favorite dish actually is the tako pops, baby octopus (they're so cute) marinated in sesame oil, grilled on charcoal, served with a variety of salts and spices.

Kent Wang - 2009-01-20 15:32

Sorry to say, but this place (IMHO) is way overrated. It's good but a long wait and seriously expensive. The dishes are creative and tasty, but it's not really a traditional sushi place. It's more like Japanese tapas, which is not what we wanted. The feel of the restuarant is cool and definitely an 'it' place. If you want really good sushi, and just really good sushi, go to Musashino.

bob - 2010-02-08 19:12

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