Fino has well earned its place as one of the rising stars of the Austin dining scene, with a kitchen that continually improves upon its dishes; service that is unflaggingly knowledgeable, efficient, and personable; and a bar that has inspired and motivated not just other beverage programs, but cocktail aficionados to pursue their own geeky passions for perfection. While some of Austin’s other upmarket restaurants continue to fall beneath the surface, following trends or resting on long-since-earned laurels, Fino pushes onward towards excellence.

For all that Fino—a sister of Hyde Park’s also excellent Asti—has done to fight the good fight for food and wine in this city, though, it has also remained one of the most effortlessly fun places for a simpler experience, too. Nothing beats a late afternoon on the elegant, shady terrace—which might remind you of Miami Beach—sipping spectacular pre-Prohibition cocktails at happy hour. In fact, the mixologist here has become something of a celebrity, but it doesn’t seem to have gone to his head. He’s just as apt to light on fire orange peels pierced with cloves, and drop them into painstakingly measured and muddled drinks with the seriousness of a monk, as he is to playfully oblige a patron with outdated, mundane requests. Despite how crowded the small bar area gets, it doesn’t spill over into the calmer, tastefully modern main dining room, where tables are lit by individual, soft lamps.

Fino’s Mediterranean-influenced menu is full of tapas-like small plates, along with mains. The fare changes often enough that we won’t go into too much detail, but we can confidently report that the daily specials—including salads, which often employ poached egg—are often the best options of all. Lately, we’ve enjoyed delicious Serrano ham, spectacular mussels in sherry broth, fried anchovy-stuffed olives, and a root vegetable cazuela with yogurt and almonds (get it topped with fried oysters). And we’re happy to report that the paella—once the weakest dish here—has improved by leaps and bounds, full of well-integrated flavors, juicy shrimp, and spicy sausage.

Brunch, too, turns out some of the city’s best anti-taco-and-Benedict options, like house-cured salmon; creamy, bright yogurt and fresh (really!) fruit; and killer manchego biscuits with quince jam. In a feat that is incredible by any standard, but the sort that is becoming the norm at Fino, Bloody Marys are made with fresh-squeezed tomato juice.

Show-offs. (Please don’t change.)

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