Fino’s terse Mediterranean-influenced menu hardly changes, which bugs its longtime regulars less than the newfangled folks. The upshot is that it gives the kitchen ample time to tweak the dishes. Besides, there are several permutations of small and large plates for whatever kind of experience you want—whether it’s happy hour on the shady, elegant terrace, or a full meal inside in the dimly lit and intimate dining room. Either way, service is unflaggingly knowledgeable, efficient, and personable.

What’s kept the attention of otherwise-distracted Austin gourmands is the brilliant beverage program, which not only offers one of the best, most interesting, and well-priced wine lists in the city, but a bar that is at once backward and forward-thinking. It was really the first place in Austin to reinvent the classics, use the world’s best small-batch spirits, and treat muddling as a serious art form. It’s not unusual to come just for a drink, which tastes better with great anchovy-stuffed fried olives, or addictive roasted piquillo peppers with sea salt. Paella (discounted on Tuesdays) is full of well-integrated flavors, nuggets of caramelized rice, and juicy shrimp and sausage. We also love spectacular mussels in sherry broth, and a root vegetable cazuela with yogurt and almonds. (When available, ask for fried oysters on it.)

Come also for an outdoor brunch that includes house-cured salmon, killer manchego biscuits with quince jam, and fresh-squeezed Bloody Marys.