The only décor of note at T&S Chinese is in the form of several huge fish tanks, aswim with your future dinner. Even while other late-night options continue to open all over Austin, T&S remains the only Chinese kitchen open past 11pm on weekends (Magic Wok on the Drag does not count). Despite the sleep deprivation, T&S’s staff is friendly and helpful, glad to help you navigate your way through their voluminous menu, which is filled with practically any type of ocean critter you might find in a tank. Dim sum carts only roll around on weekends from 11am to 3:30pm, while fresher à-la-carte dim sum is available on weekdays. Ignore the Chinese-American standards and stick with seafood. Deep-fried shrimp toast is hot with shrimp that are so tender you might think they’ve been puréed. Rich and crisp, it doesn’t need the accompanying sweet-and-sour sauce that’s the color of FD&C Red Dye #40. Razor-thin fillets of sea bass are delicately fried and topped with tangy shredded leeks and ginger in a light soy sauce—eat quickly before they become soggy, but watch out for the occasional bone.

Also order salt-and-pepper anything—deep fried and topped with minced garlic, with nose-searing pepper that’s lovely on the palate. Double lobsters with ginger and scallions are eminently affordable while being one of the best lobster dishes in town.