Din Ho has long been a favorite among both fans of American-Chinese standards and seekers of authentic make-it-like-your-grandma-would experiences. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, with ornate dark wood touches, glass murals, and embossed colorful tables. There is always a jolly, multi-colored crowd, with many families, spinning their Lazy Susans (it’s a great place for groups). Through the throng weave carts of glistening red smoked ducks, their necks curved in neat rows. Service is friendly and remarkably fast given the hordes, and there is always an agreeable patron happy to translate the staff’s halting English. If bringing wine, call ahead; the corkage depends on the number of bottles.

The menu has some really intriguing items like sea cucumber with duck web (it’s one of the best duck webs in the Austin area), but many things taste pretty limp and greasy. To avoid this problem, order roast duck bursting with juice, or succulent pork. As for those seafood tanks, scallops and shrimp with garlic sauce is superb and buttery, with a surprising, fruity sauce that’s far removed from the brown-sauce gloop that we dread so intensely. The oyster hot pot is funky and deeply flavored. And don’t miss Dungeness crab with garlic and onion; you’ll need to work for it, but do you really mind?