Quick, name your favorite place for pho. Okay, now what’s your favorite for banh mi? Bo bun Hue? All different places, right? Most Vietnamese places tend to have a singular focus and specialty, but Nam Hua is set apart by its varied menu, with multiple well-executed dishes.

Some of our favorites here are the banh xeo, which are easily the best rendition in Dallas. The crispy coconut crêpes come with hardly any grease and a soft center. Goi ngo sen (lotus root salad) are solid, and we prefer the version with duck. Chem chep nuong bo is a dish of mussels grilled on the half shell, topped with scallions, and smeared with creamy goat cheese. We know, we know—sounds like it would be a flop, but the unique combination of smoky and tangy hits the spot. De nuong vy (grilled lemongrass goat) comes with rice paper so that you can make your own rolls. (Or tacos? We are in Texas, after all...) The seafood hotpot is another notable dish; giant hunks of seafood give the broth an earthy, rich flavor.

The atmosphere is to be expected: nothing fancy, but clean, at least. Go armed with these recommendations, and you won’t mind the lack of plushness.