We’re not in Beijing anymore, Toto. This is Plano, where asphalt and concrete and subdivisions go to die. Yao Fuzi is Chinese holy water, blessing the exurb in its purest form, beguiling residents with its contemporary vibe of stained hardwood floors, frosted glass panels, white walls embellished with framed Chinese characters, and white tablecloths set off with black napkins.

It’s hardly looks like an authentic Chinatown dive—the only visible tank is schooling with bright, inedible fish—but the kitchen is totally legit. The menu culls from all over China: Shanghai lobster, pan-fried duck with Mandarin sauce, plus Cantonese and Sichuan specialties tethered to the classic American bastardizations. Standouts include fried rice with sautéed egg, pineapple chunks, bean sprouts, shrimp, and sliced scallions in Chinese curry powder; and the addictive xiao long bao, bite-sized dumplings with a thin, steamed outer sheath that enfolds meat filling (ground pork and shrimp) and a savory rice broth.

But wait! The best experiences at Yao Fuzi aren’t even on the menu. Servers call it “the real deal,” a menu printed in Chinese where you point and order. What comes out might be jellyfish or duck gizzard...whatever it is, it’s going to rock your adventure-loving socks.