You can dress better for a night out, find a more luxurious address, sit in greater comfort, and spend a hell of a lot more rupees on three courses. Outside of Stephan Pyles or the like, you may not find a better meal or more accomplished kitchen team than Gilbert Garza and Jeffrey Hobbs. It’s an eclectic catch can.

The menu changes seasonally, but stars have included everything from fried green tomatoes with shaved Manchego cheese and slow-cooked marinara to kobe beef carpaccio with “hand-squeezed lime” dribbled into extra virgin olive oil to espresso-cured seared Cervena venison in a hazelnut demi to watermelon & French feta salad with dried-cherry-cassis sauce.

Trout almondine melts on your tongue, unrolling the essence of game fish and scorched butter. Pan-seared foie gras is decadence incarnate, crispy on the outside with a meaty, musty, and molten center. The execution is near flawless, up and down the menu. Pair that with a reasonably priced wine list and neighborhood joint vibe, there’s enough to overcome Suze’s strip mall location. It is, in fact, a destination.