Sure the panoramic view of the glass and steel and weirdly mirrored Dallas skyline is stunning, perched as Nana is on the 27th floor of the Hilton Anatole Hotel. We get that. The tables are formal yet gorgeous. Named after the nude “Nana” by Russian artist G. Marcel Suchorowsky, Nana flaunts an elegant interior (a splash of modernistic minimalism dotted with curvy cushiness) featuring an exhibition of priceless art pieces from the Asian art collection of Margaret and Trammell Crow.

Priceless. That’s a fitting word. It kinda sounds like pricy. Pricy Nana without the slinky skivvies. You can breech the $80-per-person barrier with effortless aplomb. And that’s without a drop of wine to ward off the fiscal shivers that’ll rattle your expensive dental work. Nana is the most expensive restaurant in Dallas. What do you get? You’ll get some dynamic, edgy gastronomy to heavy pet your culinary yearnings. Heck, the food can be impressive and is often fascinating. Example: slow roasted breast of duck with Potironne escargots and mozzarella rice pudding.

But there’s a ‘tude here that grates. Nana sweats excessive self-regard. Plus the wine list isn’t all that exceptional for all of this culinary heft and it gives pricy a bad name. Example: Gruet Blanc de Noirs from New Mexico rings in at $42—a markup of more than three times the retail. Yeah but you get that glitzy panoramic view of the Dallas Skyline. And that’s worth something. Now fork it over.