How does one tell a good street taco from one that will cause distress at some point later in the evening? A glut of vehicles pulling up to the curb or finding an empty patch of grass, a line of impatient people standing in the hot sun, a mix of Hispanics and in-the-know gringos clamoring for barbacoa or al pastor—those are good indications you’re in the right place.

Taquería El Si Hay is one of the most revered stands in all of Dallas. And though it could be more basic, paring down would take a little work. The decorating conceits consist of a window, a short overhang, a trash barrel, and a picnic table. Bottle caps litter the ground permanently. Pickup trucks idle, fouling the air. Yet no one cares about the soiled ambience, about long waits in sun or rain, about anything.

El Si Hay’s tacos, despite the upscale propensity in this ’hood, rank among the best eats around. The shabby wood-frame shed sits right across from trendy Bolsa, yet may be more popular. In fact, the owners of Bolsa sometimes cross over for simple street fare doused in fresh cilantro and lime, or hot cups of elotes. Now if that isn’t a hearty endorsement for seekers of authenticity...