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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Dallas
Food
Feel
Price
8.5
8.5
$60
Modern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Tue–Sat 5:30pm–10:00pm

Features Date-friendly, good wines, veg-friendly
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.localdallas.com

Downtown
2936 Elm St.
Dallas, Texas
(214) 752-7500
Local
A storied building is host to this exciting Dallas kitchen

It’s forged in the husk of the circa-1908 Boyd Hotel, a frequent stopover for notorious Great Depression-era outlaws Bonnie and Clyde. Also: a favorite haunt for bluesmen Huddie “Ledbelly” Ledbetter and Blind Lemon Jefferson. Now that’s urban cred with a dash of sassy low-down. Today this low-lit space with a slight NYC vainglory fume is the proving ground for chef Tracy Miller’s imaginative Modern American flourishes.

Backdrop: the historic deftly interlaced with cutting edge urbanity. Scenery: original landmark-quality pine wood flooring topped with a chocolate brown wool shag rug toupée, 16-foot high ceilings with Knoll resin panels, furry draperies, and a sleek futuristic Bang & Olufsen Beosound 9000 CD changer (decidedly retro-chic in this age of earbud profligacy) in the bar. It’s über cozy and hip and guaranteed not to overload your irony lobes.

Food: revel in the addictive fried green beans while savoring seared Hudson Valley foie gras with Madeira-steeped figs. Cornflake-panko-crusted sea bass with Yukon gold butternut squash risotto is a showstopper, as is the ahi tuna tartare with a handmade sesame seed cracker. Portions tend to be small. And pricy. But this is a fantastic little spot off the well-trodden path; a pinnacle in the Dallas dining scene.

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