The first of power chef Kent Rathbun’s restaurants is still his best. With a Pan-Asian menu that incorporates everything from sushi to Italian to Southern cuisine, Rathbun creates unexpected, enticing flavors. Lobster-scallion shooters with red chili coconut sake are a longstanding favorite. Alluring highlights include chipotle bacon duck with maple pepper glaze, albacore sashimi with jalapeño and yuzu-olive oil, and seared foie gras with bacon buttermilk pancakes. “Russian Rolls” composed of hamachi, crab, salmon, and avocado pair surprisingly well with goat cheese and aged Gouda.

Stunning contemporary décor with luscious curves and lusty angles plus a massive gleaming kitchen keep the eyes roused. The seductive bar swarms with pre-dinner imbibers as well as after-dinner sippers. An ample bar menu features sushi selections, artisanal cheeses, and desserts. The wine list is extensive and pricey, but includes noteworthy boutique selections. Critical flaw: a service culture suffused with arrogance.