Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa opened the Dallas branch of his Nobu chain back in 2005, at a time when the last overwrought, three-figure-tab restaurants struggled for a foothold. The decorators settled on onyx, birch, and river stone to frame Nobu’s atmosphere. Of the Il Mulino, Nobu, and Voltaire (where waitresses wore gold leather dresses and Chihuly glass served as decoration) ilk only Nobu still stands. That’s as much a tribute to the dearth of urban-class sushi in Dallas as it is to Matsuhisa’s formula.

The menu is similar to New York, the Bahamas, and wherever else the chain supports outposts, with a few local flavors thrown in for fun: jalapeño salsa to accompany scallops, for instance, or a big rib eye steak. Nigiri is standard fare, the rolls alright, and tempura dishes are outstanding compared to local competition.

It’s difficult, however, to suggest Nobu over the likes of Tei An and Tei Tei Robata Bar when it comes to authentic and signature Japanese dishes. What Nobu has is location (under a five-star hotel) and the price to attract those lodged in a five-star hotel.