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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Dallas
Food
Feel
Price
6.0
7.0
$25
Pizza, Italian
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat 11:00am–10:00pm
Sun 4:00pm–10:00pm

Features Outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

www.brixpizzeria.com

Fort Worth
2747 S. Hulen
Fort Worth, TX
(817) 924-2749
Brix Pizza & Wine Bar
Upscale Italian chef goes back to the basics, but not without bumps

Some years ago, chef Danielle Puleo practically abandoned his upscale modern Italian space, Danielle Osteria—leaving it in the hands of line cooks so he could concentrate on pizza pies. It’s a riches-to-rags story that turned out pretty well, especially for those who appreciate style with a little substance.

Brix is an adult hangout, crowded with cougars pounding white wine and those who hunt, as well as aficionados of decent pizza. As the evening wears on, the din ramps up from settled conversation to loud cackling, underneath which Puleo’s fusion of Italian flavor in an American casing fights for attention. Combinations run along the lines of prosciutto and spinach, riding over an herbal sauce on a Neapolitan-inspired crust. Other options include bruschetta and, well, the expected Italianesque bites.

Wine by the glass options rule here and are apparently selected for easy drinking and everyday affordability. Service can be iffy, ranging from professionally distanced to borderline rude, depending upon the restaurant’s need to turn tables. Seemingly, however, the cougar crowd manages to hang onto theirs.

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