Some years ago, chef Danielle Puleo practically abandoned his upscale modern Italian space, Danielle Osteria—leaving it in the hands of line cooks so he could concentrate on pizza pies. It’s a riches-to-rags story that turned out pretty well, especially for those who appreciate style with a little substance.

Brix is an adult hangout, crowded with cougars pounding white wine and those who hunt, as well as aficionados of decent pizza. As the evening wears on, the din ramps up from settled conversation to loud cackling, underneath which Puleo’s fusion of Italian flavor in an American casing fights for attention. Combinations run along the lines of prosciutto and spinach, riding over an herbal sauce on a Neapolitan-inspired crust. Other options include bruschetta and, well, the expected Italianesque bites.

Wine by the glass options rule here and are apparently selected for easy drinking and everyday affordability. Service can be iffy, ranging from professionally distanced to borderline rude, depending upon the restaurant’s need to turn tables. Seemingly, however, the cougar crowd manages to hang onto theirs.