As a pizzeria, Eno’s is rather disappointing. The crust bulges with blackened air pockets and carries a nice, bitter char. But the execution of the whole—sauce and toppings and important bits—droops into mediocrity. But the cool Oak Cliff (make that Bishop Arts District) parlor offers many other reasons to spend an evening, including a well-considered beer list and some surprising non-pie options.

You can sample local creamy cheeses with rosemary pecans or try spice-filled figs with Texas goat cheese. Or pluck from a rotating selection of olives. Eno’s has daily rotating soup selection too, ranging from Hudson lentil to Napa Valley porridge. Meyer lemon salad with bacon and shaved Parmesan doused in honey (local) tarragon vinaigrette piques too. On our visits, European standards such as the bouillabaisse have stood out, as did the root beer float. Made from good ice cream and artisanal root beer, it turns out creamy, bitter, and effervescent.

Like many restaurants these days, Eno’s stresses local sourcing (the “local pie” boasts seasonal, “locally influenced” staples). Even the wine list is local; with Texas wines and a selection from Dallas’s own Times Ten Cellars. The wine selection strains price credulity though.