One of the first ovens to appear in the Dallas-Fort Worth area’s 2006-2011 pizza boom, Cavalli adheres to Neapolitan virtue with an uncompromising attitude. They care about little else, obviously: the restaurant itself occupies a tiny, unceremonious space. And they take no notice of welcome ancillaries, such as wine or beer—bring your own and wait in line (during peak hours this may tally up to 45 minutes from the time you fall in behind the last guy to the moment the pie arrives at your table).

Why wait? They spin the dough to order from batches prepared each day. The wood-fired oven coils and attacks, turning out beautiful Neapolitan crusts, crackling and charred on the outside, chewy within. The toppings are fresh and real, curling under intense heat and drawing in some of the acrid presence. A thin San Marzano sauce parries rich cheese and cured meats with an acidic glee. Those in search of a see-and-be-seen experience with long ingredient lists and frozen margaritas will be puzzled by Cavalli’s popularity. It’s a destination for those who crave authenticity above atmosphere.