It would be easy to dismiss this tiny Carrollton parlor as just another cheap delivery operation. A Subway shop next door blares distractingly, for one, and there’s a busy 7-Eleven on the corner (so much for local charm). There’s also no way to see it from the street without barging into the SUV in front of you.

And the “kitchen”—it’s right behind the counter—works around the sort of electric oven scorned by the current wave of coal- or wood-fired aficionados. But Paparazzi Pizza turns out some of the best white and gourmet pies in all of Dallas-Fort Worth: fresh ingredients, thin and crispy crust, simple seasoning. A few of the other offerings stand out, too, such as the owner’s gyros (he’s Greek). Others show signs of indifferent preparation.

There’s not much of a dining room, other than three or four small tables under walls surrounded by a few framed accolades from professional critics who managed to find the place. At least the parking is free. Paparazzi Pizza doesn’t deliver, after all.