To suggest that Mi Piaci has seen its share of ups and downs would be an understatement. Although it has never disappeared into obscurity, the longstanding Italian restaurant experienced hot, new highs and stretches where it slipped off the radar. In between, it served as training ground for some of the city’s brightest chefs, including Joel Harloff.

Fortunately, Mi Piaci never suffered a complete collapse in its food service. And now it appears to be on another periodic rebound: scallops cooked just to the point where pincers of heat meet in the center then dusted with truffles and set in a rich, yet lightly flavored lemon cream sauce; earthy wild mushroom soup; house-made pasta that resists the bite. Whether peaking or walking in place, Mi Piaci’s service standard remains the same—not stuffy, not relaxed, but always proper. It’s a difficult dance to grasp right away, really.

Waitstaff float through the room with ease, treating guests with a rare blend of affability and elegance. Even when the restaurant is between chefs, shall we say, staff members create such a sense of refinement that little slip ups cease to matter at all.