When Janice Provost took the reins of Parigi in 2001 she might have hoped to become one of Oak Lawn’s favorite neighborhood chefs. This Parisian-style (Parigi means “Paris” in Italian), Italian-influenced bistro puts a crisp focus on local products from regional vendors, creating farm-to-table flavors for an ever-evolving, seasonal menu.

Unlike so many of the city’s flashy chefs, however, Provost and her team go about their local/seasonal business quietly. She refrains from the blatant and crass—the blaring media appeals and Tesar-like look-at-me charity appearances. It’s a strategy that has made Parigi a neighborhood darling for more than 20 years. Mainstays include portobello fries with truffle buttermilk cream, baked garlic, truffle pâté, seasonal tapenades, and an overflowing cheese plate with many Texas options. The kitchen takes uncommon pride in forgotten elements (like proper technique), which is especially evident when it turns its attention to more plebeian fare, such as french fries.

The wine list is Californian, French, and Italian, all at approachable prices, and exquisitely tailored to menu options. Great espresso and cappuccino, too, especially following dinner on the outdoor patio lit with twinkling lights. There are few such examples of reserved brilliance around. For Provost, it’s mission accomplished.