Alberto Lombardi has been prominent in the Dallas dining scene for decades. But in the last few years, he has created a little fiefdom in the Uptown area: Café Toulouse, Sangria, and the newer La Fiorentina. Add to that the recently shuttered La Cubanita, and few can doubt Lombardi’s quest to dominate the few square blocks around Travis Walk.

Taverna is the restaurant that started it all, and is in some ways is the most lucid and unified of his concepts. As in most of Lombardi’s creations, the menu is complete and uncluttered: a half-dozen risotto dishes, about as many specialty pizzas, and some pastas and meat dishes. The style is classic if not inventive. A fritto misto plate benefits from the spicy aïoli that accompanies it, and the chef’s focaccia (basically an unadorned mini pizza) is always gobbled voraciously at our table.

But there are true stars, too. Gorgonzola e pera—cheese-and-fruit-filled pasta purses coated in a cream sauce and tossed with walnuts—has crunch, tang, sweetness, and earthiness. It’s not to be missed. (It’s also available in pizza format.) And the eggs al forno—pan-fried eggs drizzled with truffle oil over sausage and brioche—are so rich that the meal should be served with complimentary Lipitor. Maybe that’s not a good thing for your cardiovascular gears, but your taste buds will thank you.