A descent of the stairs to the Danielle Osteria dining room immediately transports you into chef/owner Danielle Puelo’s Sicilian homeland. Sultry, fragrant aromas waft through the room. Candlelit tables wrap around a well-stocked wine cellar. It’s a splash of sophisticated romance meshed with muted elegance.

The food is good, too. Inspired by the culinary traditions of Italy, with an emphasis on Sicily, Danielle Osteria doesn’t proffer mainstream renditions of fettuccini alfredo or pepperoni pizza. Instead such dishes are light and fresh with unexpected robust flavors. Crispy thin pizzas feature shrimp and artichokes; or roasted chicken, caramelized onions, and pesto. Look for slow-roasted lamb shank or grilled fish with olives, capers, and cherry tomatoes, too. Housemade pastas include sumptuous gnocchi with rich Gorgonzola.

The service staff is well briefed and inconspicuously attentive, though service can grind to a near halt when the dining room is hit with larger parties. The wine list is a tight, eclectic assemblage of wines from Italy, especially Sicily and Sardinia—so apropos.