Dallas is tough place for authentic Italian, the kind that ventures far from the spaghetti-lasagne-parmigiana paradigm. Either the risk isn’t taken, or those who do get pummeled out of the market place on a fusillade of meatballs.

Or so it seems. Ferrari’s falls mostly into the safe—if competent—category. Yet that isn’t all bad. It specializes in Italian and (to a much lesser extent) Sardinian fare and more than a few items that mostly eschew Italian pedigree. Witness the Caesar salad, the sea bass topped with lump crabmeat, the grilled Australian rack of lamb with rosemary, and the wedge salad (huh?). Ferrari’s features delicious hand-made pastas prepared daily, addictive focaccia from a wood-burning oven, and carpaccio carved from aged filet mignon. Plus steaks (or course). You can also experience specialties prepared tableside including a flamed aged filet mignon with tomatoes, capers, olives, garlic, and oregano.

The wine list is bulked primarily with Italian and Sardinian selections plus a few California options to keep Ferrari’s mainstream chops fit and trim. The vibe is restrained classic opulence with decorative coves harboring pillar candles and the like. Plus lots of reds and a rich amber cast to keep the well-tread Ital-theater vibe juiced. It’s homey and romantic. We just wish it were more inspiring.