In the short span that encompasses real Wild West history, the incident inspiring the Lonesome Dove novel was a tale of suffering, fellowship, and perseverance. Chef Tim Love’s restaurant version comes off as somewhat of a forced cliché—which he brings to Lonesome Dove in the form of saloon décor and the usual trinkets associated with cowboys and trail drives. But there’s more, including the almost embarrassing bit where staff don ten-gallon hats.

Fortunately, his cooking is more creative than thematic. For example, take the foie gras brûlée dusted in chile and served on toast. Texas toast, that is. Or fresh local fish seasoned with pancetta. Love knocks lobster down a few notches by offsetting it with black bean salsa. The somewhat pedestrian presentation makes perfect sense, however. Both elements share a rich character sliced by acidic fruit. But Lonesome Dove is hardly a cerebral place. Love revels in the simplicity of prime steaks dusted with salt and pepper or game dishes, including venison and boar. And so it is, in essence, a typical Dallas-Fort Worth restaurant.

Visitors to the Fort Worth side, however, expect an overdose of cowboy kitsch—either that or the folks behind places like Reata, Bonnell’s, and Lonesome Dove can’t imagine anything else when it comes to decoration.