“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Dallas
Food
Feel
Price
6.7
7.5
$55
Southern, Southwestern
Upmarket restaurant

Hours
Daily 11:00am–2:30pm
Daily 5:00pm–10:30pm

Features Date-friendly, live music, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.reata.net

Fort Worth
310 Houston St.
Fort Worth, TX
(817) 336-1009
Reata
Dust off your old Western gear for this rooftop; the food, however, can be skipped

The Fort Worth institution’s dining rooms come fully armed with Wild West vulgarity: chaps, saddles, artwork, belt buckles the size of chicken-fried steak, the requisite longhorns and such. Even the tines they use to spear olives for the many martinis served at Reata’s bar resemble snippets of barbed wire…which is why it’s best to head directly upstairs and away from marauding garishness.

The rooftop represents the best of Dallas-Fort Worth patio environment. Servers approach you with chatty aplomb. The menu barely strays from expectations, either. There’s chicken-fried steak drenched in heavily peppered gravy, thick overly salted steaks, and more exotic red meats. Three firm shrimp slump under slick and flabby bacon, leaving a wash of salt and smoke (though the former is far more prevalent). Only a centerpiece onion jam saved this appetizer from a surreptitious toss onto Sundance Square.

Menu items meander between overburdened, mundane, and those worthy of Reata’s storied name. Their famous chicken chile relleno discovers an all-too-rare parity between creamy, spicy, and the rutted, dusty herbal notes. Downtown hotels shuffle their guests to the place, so it packs up during conventions. The rooftop patio is worth muttering “pardon me” a few hundred times.

Be the first to leave a comment…