Just down from the diner, toward Sundance Square, there’s a free museum featuring works by Frederick Remington. The iconic western artist helped secure cowboy travails and native culture in the American mind. A visit here should most certainly get you in the mood for this meal; unlike the helpful, friendly museum staff, however, Cowtown puts the Mel’s back in “diner.”

Cowtown Diner fixes presumably the largest chicken-fried steak this side of the Mississippi—and since no diner east of the big river fries the Texas staple, it’s a safe assumption. In general, though, food is hit or miss, ranging from hearty (and smaller) regular portions of chicken-fried steak to thick and earthy black bean purée to parched and tasteless chicken. Service bounces between fiery, iffy, and downright rude, with occasional mishaps leading to considerate treatment. Near closing time they may even turn you away.

Fortunately, there’s plenty of competition around Sundance Square, from Reata to Flying Saucer, each more appealing than Cowtown Diner. If only there were an On the Border to keep it company.