There’s a burger and shake joint in Deep Ellum that consistently wins unwarranted acclaim from others—so much that it branched out, opening similarly overvalued operations around the area. Compared to Kenny’s, the nationally televised Twisted Root Burger Co. seems like McDonald’s. Kenny’s serves robust, meaty, and thick patties, dripping with juice and—just as important—brought to you by a server, as opposed to Twisted Root’s self-service gig.

Oh, the fries at Kenny’s are disappointing (and you pay extra for the disappointment), especially considering the rich beef-tallow-finished frites chef Kenny Bowers assigns to his first restaurant, Kenny’s Wood Fired Grill. But the shakes (and the alcohol-laced adult shakes) stand well above most competitors. Bowers’s only nod to self-conscious hipness comes in the form of wisdom drawn mostly from films like Animal House, framed and tacked along a couple walls. Another is devoted to lesser light burger brands.

Between these walls and the fully stocked bar, the room fills with business types at lunch, families on weekend afternoons, and couples looking for brazen patties at night. If you’re looking for a more upscale burger experience, it’s hard to beat this joint.