You might think of this place as quaint. After all, it occupies a corner building on McKinney’s courthouse square, home to antique shops, crafts, arts, and whatnot. But the kitchen hosts two chefs from the Wolfgang Puck stable who follow the local-seasonal ethic as much as possible. The beef comes from a nearby farm and is grass-fed, grass-finished, surprisingly juicy, and intense in flavor.

Where other burger stops count on hard grilling techniques to impart a strong, bittersweet charred flavor, Square Burger allows the meat to speak in low, robust tones. A lamb burger is sustained by mild feta, fresh greens dressed in balsamic vinegar and olive oil, and other familiarly “Greek” touches on a sturdy pita bun. In fact, every burger—from their all-American basic to the Uptown-friendly tuna version—is paired with an appropriate bun. Fries are mundane, but sides such as the interpretation of mac and cheese (we particularly liked a version with pancetta and English peas) rank more toward the “outstanding” category.

Of perhaps even greater importance, they keep at least 30 beers on tap. The place is confident enough that it refuses even to put up a sign announcing its presence. Simply put, this is the best burger joint in the Dallas area.