Twisted Root bills itself as the only burger joint in town driven by three highly trained chefs decorated with institutional credentials. What hath all of this credentialism wrought? Mostly bathrooms demarcated thusly: those who stand to pee; those who sit to pee. Yet: Twisted Root has juicy half-pound burgers shaped from a blend of ground chuck and brisket. Plus Twisted offers wild game burgers including buffalo, venison, elk, ostrich, emu, boar, antelope, or lamb when such hoofs are available.

Housemade condiments—ancho chipotle ketchup, horseradish dijon, or secret barbecue sauce—are assembled on the tables in cardboard six-pack beer bottle totes. There’s a condiment bench with housemade pickles, too, including Bourbon bread and butter, dill, sweet and spicy, and “atomic.” But beware: Twisted Root has no draught beer. Grab your bottled beer from a vat of ice. While these burgers won’t blow your fries, they are rich and zesty with a spice sting. But the game burgers can be dry.

Still, Twisted Root is solid on the charm in all of its faux grease monkey décor glory: head gaskets under Plexiglas on the tables; tacky bumper stickers on the walls; and a bar open to the elements via garage doors. Angus beef deep-fried hot dogs, too, plus the “Fried Ride,” a basket of fried everything: onion strings, fries, green beans, and pickles. Flush the cardiovascular hoses with housemade root beer.