Sutra is not a strictly traditional place. You notice the full bar right away; dressed in signature cocktails and well-known spirits, it’s a feature not often seen in Indian restaurants. The menu’s reach is only somewhat transcontinental. For instance, Goan shrimp rest under a poultice of sofrito, bringing a slow, murky array with very faint and sweet vegetable peaks to bear on the firm shellfish. (Thanks to the complexities of history, Goan cuisine draws on Portuguese flavors, so the sofrito seems rather sympathetic.) Mussels Cataplana, poached in a complex, nuanced tomato sauce, also borrow from Portugal.

Yet Sutra’s crux is purely Indian, only more modern in approach. Paneer gentles croquettes of potato and peas, an already soft combination. Instead of pairing these with something stronger, the chef prefers you concentrate enough to sense a faint earthy tremor. Tandoori prawns carry a distinct sheen, peppered by the hollow husk of onion seeds.

Chef-owner Vijay Sadhu’s mark is sometimes hard to discern, as he tends to float seasonings in a manner difficult to describe. Some end up partially camouflaged. Others provide the heft that send this or that note soaring. Yet it seems as if he is most comfortable with elusive flavors—not cerebral, just waiting slightly beyond comprehension. There are faults, of course. But Sadhu may be the best Indian chef around.