Styled as a European pub, The Old Monk has for years earned accolades for its convivial atmosphere, casual vibe, familiar service, beer selection, and general pubness. In fact, former staffers are largely responsible for the recent boom in fine drinking taverns around the area, poking giant holes in the city’s pretentious aspirations.

The room is battered and dim. The crowd an uneasy, oil-and-water frappé of crusty locals from the street’s downscale years and blithe 20-somethings drawn by recent gentrifications. Though not large by any means, the beer selection draws from some of the best European labels (check the chalkboard). Bartenders also know their way around spirts—there’s a decent, though again not large, stock of whiskeys. Staff members make you feel like part of the conversation between Louis Vuitton and L.L. Bean opposites—until late evening when the room fills to near capacity.

Still, the pub falls short of its European label…except when one considers the talent employed in The Old Monk’s kitchen. They serve some very respectable mussels, a decent set of sandwiches, good soups, and other tidbits. It’s easy to find a more impressive beer selection, a cushier atmosphere, and better food. But it’s near impossible to come away from The Old Monk disappointed.