Taramosalata is a classic Greek spread: crushed roe and breadcrumbs, steeped in milk, doused with lemon juice, bound with egg yolk, seasoned and then emulsified into a silky mass. The result is so intriguing—a hit of fishy saline, a tangible creaminess, and a grassy flair. Oktapodi is another classic, featuring beautifully tender octopus marinated in a sharp red wine.

Yes, Platia Greek Kouzina doles out the usual gyros and tzatziki. But the restaurant’s real purpose is to remind people of home-cooked meals in Athens…or Chicago. So you can dine on roasted chicken, juicy on the inside, burnished outside, and thoroughly rubbed in oregano. It’s warm, basic, and satisfying. Service matches this ethic, with staff members barely holding back implied hugs and happily sharing stories about their kin back in the Old World.

Platia does have its wilder moments, though—flaming Greek cheese tableside while shouting “Opa!” for one. Stick with the unusual (by Mediterranean restaurant standards) and you’ll be rewarded. Oh, and stay for coffee, because the waitress will read your future in the leftover grounds. You’ll need coffee, unless you brought along something stronger: Platia is BYO.