The new Gloria’s is not the old one, and we don’t just mean the locale. It’s yuppier than the original Oak Cliff space with sleek décor, a huge bar (with tons of TVs), a fancy schmancy patio, and valet parking. It’s definitely gone up-market in style.

Yet the food—a blend of Salvadoran specialties like pupusas (grilled pockets of masa served, always, with a tuft of slaw called curtido) and Tex-Mex favorites (quesadillas, chiles rellenos, carne asada, and enchiladas) remains the same. There’s enough here that you can always find something, but we often go back to the familiar: the “Super Special” (an appetizer platter of favorites, including caramelized plantain) plus chocolate flan for dessert. Relish the signature black bean dip that opens each meal.

The new location puts an earnest focus on service, but missteps still crop up here and there. But face it: no one comes to Gloria’s for white glove service. They come for the buzz, the friendliness, and the great beer and tequila selections. That’s enough.