Hudson’s on the Bend struck food-cart gold on a bustling South Congress strip when it created a batter out of almonds, corn flakes, sesame seeds, and arbol chilies, dunked avocados, shrimp, and chicken in it, deep fried them, stuffed them in a tortilla inside of a paper cone and doused the whole thing in a spicy-creamy sauce. People seem to love The Mighty Cone; hey, if you’re shopping at the weekend artist’s market, it’s the most solid food-cart option.

If the concept sounds unattractive, consider that much stranger things have been stuffed, with a success we can’t always heartily endorse, into a tortilla. If you like those, you might be a fan of these. It works simply as a portable and intense flavor-delivery system. The chicken (when not overfried and greasy), fares this employment best, as do the meaty shrimp; avocado tends to be mushy, and the venison sausage dry, with only aggressive mustard to flavor it. Chili-dusting cannot save the fries from being as mealy as larger-cut fries often are.

You’ll need to approach The Mighty Cone first with a fork, and then finish it as a taco; but we’ve had to reverse this approach on several occasions. Also, a healthy skepticism helps.