Although it consistently charms patrons, Café Josie’s just not high on the radar for people. Perhaps because it’s set back from the street somewhat in a cute, sleepy neighborhood, or because it’s not very PR-pumped. The menu doesn’t change much, and it hasn’t jumped on the locavore bandwagon; but this airy, vaguely equatorial-themed place, with its leafiness and abundance of warm colors, delivers one of the nicer dining experiences in town.

Despite a certain datedness (confetti vegetables, zigzagged sauces, occasional presentations in martini glasses), flavors are interesting and well balanced. Bright soups often integrate Mexican spices and change daily. One crowning achievement here is the relentlessly excellent redfish crusted with pumpkin seeds and hopped up on mango habanero butter, poblano rice, black beans dusted with cotija cheese, and various species of chile. It’s an object lesson in textural counterpoints. Even the rice, so often an afterthought, bursts with bright, herbal notes. Mesquite-grilled pork tenderloin with rum glaze hovers magically just this side of too sweet.

We’re dismayed by some changes to the wine list that pair less than gracefully with the food—less chances are taken here than in the kitchen, which isn’t showy or thrilling by any means, but at least it delivers.